by Nay | Aug 22, 2013 | Newly Natural, Tips
Love these curls!
You probably have noticed that I’ve been doing some research on the science behind our natural hair.
You say: Luuuuccy, you’ve got some ‘splaining to do!
I say (throws hands in the air): But Riiiicky, let me explain!
In case that all went over your head, you gotta catch at least one episode of I Love Lucy–throwback!
Back to my point. I basically wanted to nail down and discuss (in an easily digestible way) some of the key items that affect our hair. This includes all the things that I skipped learning about while I was also learning to embrace my natural hair … for the second time!
Yes, you got that right. A few years ago, I decided to embrace my curly hair (during round two, following straightening addiction), but I overlooked some important elements becaaaause … weeeelllll … there was all this talk about all sorts of scientificy stuff. Ain’t nobody got time for that (folds hands at chest)! Well, at least that’s what I initially thought until I realized that it was taking forrrreeevvvver for my hair to grow! I decided that it couldn’t hurt to do some hair homework.
Between that time and now, I’ve gathered some information, which has been included in my new free, e-book (shameless plug). One of those topics that you need to know about is discussed below–humectants. In case you’re not quite sure how these suckers work, I’ve broken it down for you below. Have no fear, Super Nay is here! 😉 Read more after the jump.
Super Nay (the heroine in my head, ha!). Art by Nay, inspired by Wonder Woman.
What Are Humectants?
Humectants are ingredients and/or products that promote moisture retention. I won’t delve too deeply into compounds and molecules. Just know that these items have a chemical structure that attracts water from the atmosphere and binds it to the molecule. In other words, humectants are attracted to moisture, whether it is in your hair or in the atmosphere, but they work best in moderate climates.
What’s The Impact of High Humidity?
When it is highly humid outside, there is a large amount of water vapor in the air. Dry and damaged hair that is free of products aka porous, thirsty tresses (read more about porosity for detailed information) will naturally seek to absorb the moisture in the air. However, taking in such a large amount of moisture will make your hair full … to the point of swelling and lifting the cuticle layer (the outer layer of hair). This will create frizzy and tangled hair.
Now, if you have a humectant in your thirsty tresses, this will only exasperate the problem. Your hair will become soggy, sticky, and poofy all at once! Recalling a few instances?
What’s The Impact of Low Humidity?
When the humidity is minimal, as seen on most dry, winter days, there isn’t a lot of moisture in the air. If your hair is styled with a product that contains humectants, these items will either:
- Hang onto the moisture in your hair and prevent it from evaporating. This may or may not prove to be successful. Your best bet is to stick with moisturizing products, like leave-in conditioners.
- Remove moisture from your hair’s cortex and send it into the air. Remember that thing about attraction? Your hair will do this because it so kindly believes that the air needs the moisture, of course. Unfortunately, this will also dry out your hair.
What Are Some Examples of Humectants?
Before you use any product, you should read the ingredients to see whether or not humectants are included. This will help you to better prep your hair for the current humidity levels. In other words, you’ll say “aha!” whenever your hair decides to rise up and become a frizzilicious ball on your head.
Just so you have a heads up, here are a few popular humectants found in hair care products:
- Agave Nectar
- Aloe Vera Gel
- Fructose
- Glycerin
- Honey
- Hydrolyzed silk protein
- Panthenol
Now that you’ve got it down, are you ready to take on humidity with humectants? Wham! Bang! Zing!
by Nay | Aug 21, 2013 | Uncategorized
The best protection any woman can have… is courage.” ~Elizabeth Cady Stanton
My curly mane in a perpetual ponytail!
For the past few months, I have been basking in the yummy warmth that summer presents. You could easily find me stretched out (in a quiet, bug free zone!), with my arms and legs extended wide. When my eyes are closed, a simple smile spreads across my face in the utter delight that the good Lord has given me light … literally!
I lay there lingering while the sun’s rays penetrate my bones. I feel my toes, legs, arms, and face grow warm. I freely surrender to the sun, and listen closely to the sound of my body inhaling and exhaling.
I thank God, the father, son, holy spirit, Allah, universe, and all for the summer and these utter sweet moments. To put it simply, I. Love. Summer.
However, somewhere in all that basking and sun worshiping, I lost my mojo! Yes, I went through a hair funk from May through June. I just couldn’t lift a finger to do another twist, rake and smooth another product through my hair, or experiment with more than a handful of products. Sorry, I know I slow rolled and let you down (hangs head in shame). You see, I just went through an easy, breezy period where I was beyond wash and go’s. I wanted to pull it back into a pony, braid the length, smooth the hairline with gel, and go-go-gadget! Aaaand that’s just what I did.
When I initially made the switch, I had a lot of people taking double takes. My own mother even asked (somewhat sadly), “Where’d all the hair go?” Now if you’re familiar with natural hair, you’ll know that it shrinks and reduces volume in its curly state. That’s what happened to me. When I turned around, I revealed my braid … and relieved my mother’s worries.
While snatching and gelling my hair into a pony, it encouraged me to explore the wonderful world of makeup, since the focus was already on me serving face. I enjoyed it, but I have to admit, come July, I wanted my curls back. I returned to wash and go’s, and recently, I’ve been sporting braid-outs.
I really do believe that the time I spent wearing my hair in a ponytail really helped my hair, namely because it is a protective style. It kept my hair and ends protected since they were neatly tucked into a braid and secured from friction and tugging. By the time I was ready to release the kraken, my curly mane was all sorts of popping and curling thanks to aloe vera gel (AVG).
To recap, here’s a quick and dirty breakdown of my summer routine, thus far. Oh, and by the way … drum roll! I think I may have reached waist length! Okay, okay, a few strands are hitting my waist, but the majority is at under boob length. I know you can’t tell by these pics. Ah, natural hair! When the weather cools, I’ll straighten it and share my length check to give you an accurate account. Here’s my routine so far:
- May and June = braided ponytail with As I Am leave-in conditioner and hair slicked down with aloe vera gel
- July = wash and go with aloe vera gel (I gave Eco Styler Gel a pause since AVG was working so well with As I Am)
- August = braid-outs with As I Am’s Twist Defining Cream. Review to come!
Ponytail protective styling with aloe vera gel
Have you been feeling experimental this summer, or have you simplified your routine? Caught in a rut? Spill the beans below!
by Nay | Aug 1, 2013 | Tips
Now, I’ve been praising the miracles of moisturizing natural hair with leave-in conditioners and sealing the cuticle layer (the outermost layer of hair) with an oil or butter. Now, I’m throwing a monkey wrench into the mix. Uh, huh. This one must be explained since it affects us all: porosity.
Huh? Confused? I don’t blame ya! I heard sprinkles of information about porosity for a while now but usually covered my ears and clicked next on my screen. I thought it all sounded too scientific for me.
Guess what? I caved (hangs head down) because I found out that we actually need to know this one. Grab a pencil and pad … er, um … an iPad? Let me give you a quick and painless explanation of porosity and its affect on natural hair.
Porosity
Porosity is the measurement of your hair’s ability to absorb moisture. Simple. Your hair’s cuticle layer (the outermost layer) is key to porosity levels. When the cuticle is closed, it lays flat and moisture cannot escape or enter the hair shaft. This often results in moisture being sealed into your hair. However, your natural hair may be too porous, not enough, or juuuust right. Hang in there Goldilocks, let me explain.
Normal Porosity
This one’s easy. Natural, black hair easily retains moisture if your porosity is normal. The cuticle layer will open or close based on normal activities and products, but the actual, shingled layer is healthy and intact.
Low Porosity
If your hair has low porosity, it will have trouble opening up due to its overly compact cuticle layer. With this firm barrier, your hair will have difficulty absorbing moisture/water and allowing it to escape. As a result, hair will take longer to absorb products, leaving it dry. It will also be susceptible to product build up.
Needs: A lot of moisture. To open up the cuticle, try steamers, hot oil treatments, and products that are a little more alkaline/have a higher pH level. Add moisture to your hair while it’s damp, before the cuticle layer closes up again.
Need to avoid: Products and techniques that further seal the cuticle, including protein treatments, silicones, and mineral oil.
High Porosity
If your hair has high porosity, it’s a little too friendly, as the cuticle layer remains too open! It will let moisture in and out of your hair very easily, resulting in dry hair. If your hair is very porous, this is often the result of damaged cuticles through excessive direct heat or rough styling. There is no way to repair damaged hair. However, there are a couple of things that can help.
Needs: Oils, butters, apple cider vinegar rinses, cold water rinses, and protein treatments to seal the cuticle layer. Each will temporarily fill in breaks within the cuticle. Products with low pH level (like aloe vera juice) also help.
Needs to avoid: sulfates, direct heat, and harsh chemicals.
How can you determine your hair’s porosity? Try the porosity/float test.
Porosity Test
Grab a strand(s) of hair from your comb or brush and drop it into a cup of water.
- If your hair floats, you have low porosity. The strand(s) stay at the top since it has difficulty absorbing moisture.
- If your hair quickly sinks, you have high porosity. It is taking in water fast!
- If your hair hovers somewhere in the middle, it has normal porosity.
There have been mixed feelings by curlies who have taken this test. Some say that hair has oil on it, so your strand will most likely float. Others have found this to reflect how their hair actually behaves. Junk science?? Hmmm. It couldn’t hurt to try the test or any of these remedies and see.
By the way, I tried the test and my hair floated (see image below), so I apparently have low porosity as well … Hmmm. I’ll keep this in mind as I continue on my hair journey. You should as well. You never know if these remedies will be beneficial to you.
Have you taken the porosity test? Has this helped you with your hair routine and health?
My Curly Mane underwent the Porosity/Float Test. Photo by Nay.
by Nay | Aug 1, 2013 | Tips
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A wise woman recognizes when her life is out of balance and summons the courage to act to correct it; she knows the meaning of true generosity. Happiness is the reward for a life lived in harmony, with courage and grace.” ~ Suze Orman
My Curly Mane attempts to balance its pH level. Art by Nay.
Let me guess. You just read this title and are now thinking: Here you go again with more scientificy stuff! Calm down. I’m not trapped here in a lab … (quickly takes off white coat and quietly places beakers in the cabinet). Just think of it as me giving you quick lessons for the week. Sit back and relax. Ready for this one? It’s all about natural hair’s pH balance.
First let’s revisit our hair’s structure. As you may already know, the cuticle layer is the outermost, shingle-like layer of hair made of keratin. It protects the cortex aka your hair’s inner layer that provides strength, texture, and color. It also surrounds the medulla, the innermost layer of the hair that is present in coarse hair textures. When closed, the cuticle seals moisture into hair, as it should.
According to Dr. Neil Persadsingh of The Hair in Black Women, “Soft and shiny hair depends on a smooth and even overlap of the scales on the cuticle.”
The Potential of Hydrogen (pH) in the products you use can affect whether or not your cuticle layer is properly sealed.
A typical pH strip
Alkaline Products
You can open the cuticle of your natural hair through heat or by using alkaline products (pH of 8-14). Note: Highly alkaline products open the cuticle too far open, which will make moisture leave your hair and cause breakage.
Acidic Products
You can close your tresses’ cuticle layer through acidic products (pH of 8-14). These products will leave your hair soft and flexible for a longer period of time. Note: Products that are too acidic can also damage hair.
Ideally
Products that are pH balanced have a pH of 7. However, you want to close the cuticle by using slightly acidic products (pH of 4.5-5.5) on hair. Acidic products are similar to hair’s natural moisturize, sebum. Aloe vera juice (pH of 4) or aloe vera gel (pH of 7) works wonders since they can balance hair’s pH.
Got it down? It is a bit tricky to wrap your head around. To help, try testing the pH levels of a few of your products. You can purchase pH strips from your local beauty supply store. Before doing so, you’ll need to determine your hair’s porosity, since this also needs to be taken into consideration.
Now, I’ve made a mental note to pick up a pH strip during my next hair haul. I’ll keep you posted on how this works as I test it out on a few natural hair care products.
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