How To Use & Choose Oils

How To Use & Choose Oils

Dầu dừa_Photo by Phu Thinh Co

Photo Credit: Phu Thinh Co

 

Is your hair dry? Is it poofing out more than desired? Come closely. Very closely. Very, very closely. Okay, that’s good enough! This one may not be a big secret to you, but I’ll whisper a single key word, “ooooiiiilllsss.”

My curly mane has been thanking me since I introduced carrier oils into my routine. Not to be confused with essential oils (lavender, peppermint, etc.), carrier oils are derived from seeds, nuts, and vegetables. All of your conditioning will be in vain if you don’t seal in your hair’s moisture with an oil or butter. It’s hard enough for sebum (natural oils from your scalp that moisturize your hair) to travel down your coily hair, so you’ll need to add oils or butters instead. Oils tend to seal and/or penetrate the hair shaft, locking moisture into hair and reducing frizz. Most oils even moisturize the scalp.

They also work wonders on your skin and nails. You can use these nourishing oils alone or combine them with essential oils, mainly to dilute and literally “carry” the essential oils onto the skin. I’ve never tried this combo due to the heavy scents that essentials have, but try it, and please report back!

USES

  1. Hot Oil Treatment – Help prep your hair/cuticles for the harshness of shampooing by doing a hot oil treatment. Combine your favorite oils with conditioners and wrap your hair with a towel or plastic cap. You can sit under a dryer or leave the mix in your hair for at least 30 minutes. This should be done prior to washing your hair.
  2. Shampoo Booster – Shampoos strip natural oils from the hair. You can prevent this by adding your oil(s) of choice to your shampoo to make it more moisturizing. Have you noticed the influx of oil-based shampoos? If you haven’t snagged one … make your own!
  3. Deep Conditioner – Like hot oil treatments, deep conditioning helps to pack moisture into your hair. Oils helps to condition the hair and scalp while also treating split ends.
  4. Seal The Deal – Have you ever noticed how great your hair looks at home … only to arrive at your destination with a ball of frizz? Whomp! Whomp! Those same magical, carrier oils seal moisturizing products into hair. You should apply them over water or leave-in conditioners. Don’t believe me? Yep, I wasn’t sold for the longest time, but check out my pic below for proof.

RECOMMENDED OILS

The oils below can be used topically and/or on your scalp. Please note that you do not need to use them all. These are the all stars that work on my curly mane. Click on the links below if you would like to purchase these oils.

On the left, my hair with leave-in conditioner & aloe vera gel. I forgot to seal my leave-in with an oil. On right, later in the day, my hair poofed out because of the lack of oil.

Almond Oil – After replenishing my oil mix (see ingredients at the bottom of this post), I realized that I originally left this oil out from this listing. I’m not sure how I did since I once swore by this oil before discovering Vatika Oil. Almond Oil is rich with Vitamin E, which means that it nourishes hair. It adds sheen and locks in moisture, which is exactly why I relied on it. It’s believed that ancient Egyptians used this oil in their beauty routine, but then again, many of these oils have been traditionally used long ago by savvy ladies across the globe.

Avocado Oil – I love, love to chow down on avocado. Blame it on me being a Caribbean girl. Now you could only imagine my excitement upon discovering avocado oil. Hey, if it’s good for the tummy, it’s got to be good for my hair, right? … Yes, it is! This oil contains vitamins A, E, and D, which are grade A elements for hair. This oil is a great sealant for my tresses. It is also an ingredient in my oil mix (see below).

Coconut Oil – This nearly tops the list for my curly mane. It comes in second place, behind Vatika Oil. Coconut oil smells soooo good, and it contains Vitamins E and fatty acids that combat dandruff. It can actually penetrate the hair shaft, where it helps reduce protein loss. It can thicken hair and reduce premature graying. It works wonders on porous strands and definitely helped my hair rehab from heat damaged. This oil best assists my hair in retaining moisture. I use it topically or on my scalp. It is also an ingredient in my oil mix (see below).

Jamaican Black Castor Oil (JBCO) – With its well-known dark color (due to the roasting of castor beans) and nutty smell, this oil is proven to be extremely effective in helping to grow hair. How? JBCO increases the flow of blood to the scalp. It also contains Vitamin E and Omega 6 fatty acids, which moisturizes the hair follicle. This oil is thiiiick, so use it sparingly. I like to combine it with other oils and apply it to my scalp. I also apply it to my hair ends during winter.

Jojoba Oil – This oil is excellent at penetrating the scalp and hair shaft. It’s recommended for treating scalp build up. Rich with vitamin E, jojoba has many of the same properties as sebum, the natural, moisturizing oil produced by your scalp to reduce hair loss. Jojoba works well with oily or dry scalp. Once again, you can use this topically or on your scalp.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil aka EVOO – This famous oil not only pairs well with bread (delish!), it also works wonders on natural hair. Derived from olives and green in color, EVOO soothes the scalp. This is particularly helpful for smoothing hair cuticles.

Dabur Vatika Oil – My absolute favorite oil blend! This product makes my hair sooooft. It’s enriched with a mixture of goodies:

  • Amla (Indian Gooseberry) – delays graying & prevents hair loss
  • Bahera (ayurvedic herb) – nourishes hair & maintains its color
  • Brahmi – nourishes hair & promotes growth
  • Coconut Oil – retains hair’s moisture
  • Cow’s Milk – nourishes the scalp
  • Harar – cleanses hair
  • Kapur Kachari – an antiseptic
  • Henna – conditions hair & is a colorant (although this product will not color your hair)
  • Lemon Oil – controls sebum flow
  • Neem – strengthens hair & fights dandruff

**MY CURLY MANE’S OIL COMBO **

I like to keep it creative and mix them all together! I combine half Vatika Oil, a small amount of JBCO, and the rest of the oils on this list together. Hey, it’s the best of all worlds, and they greatly seal in moisture!

Attention Budgetnistas: You do not need to purchase and combine all the oils listed here! I recommend at least picking up Coconut or Vatika Oil either from this site or from your local Cash and Carry. If you’d like to add another oil to Vatika/Coconut Oil, I recommend purchasing Almond Oil from here or from your local Vitamin Shoppe.

I apply oils/my oil mix to my hair each day–regardless if I’m wearing my hair naturally curly or straight–and add them to my scalp in the winter. You can both feel and see the difference. Try it and see!

If you have recommendations or comments, please feel free to share!

A Curly Girl’s Essentials

A Curly Girl’s Essentials

My First Photo Shoot: Natural Hair Movement

Photo credit: Remy, The Quill

Updated 8/4/13: This post lists key items to help you maintain your natural hair. Please note that there’s an eBook with the same title, A Curly Girl’s Essentials: A Guide for Navigating Your Curly Mane, that is now available for FREE when you sign up for My Curly Mane’s updates! The eBook includes basic information (including the list below) that will help you attain healthy hair. Subscribe and see!

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Back to the deets: The net is bubbling up with information on caring for naturally curly hair. Woo hoo! While there are more resources at our fingertips, it also makes it a bit more difficult to find simple, basic information on how to care for natural hair. I don’t want to confuse you even more, particularly you newbies out there.

Instead, I’m going to break down for you a few essential items that every curly girl needs in her stash. For my easy, breezy minimalist gals, this one’s up your alley! The products for natural hair and tools below are listed in the order in which they’re most likely used.

 

1. Moisturizing & Clarifying Shampoo / Sulfate Free Shampoo

If you are using products (mainly stylers) that contain mineral oil or non-water soluble silicones, you will need to use a shampoo to clarify your curly mane. Mineral oil and silicones can trap moisture within your strands or prevent it from entering your hair shaft. They tend to build up onto your hair, particularly African-American natural hair, and are best removed with shampoos.

Typically, shampoos contain sodium lauryl sulfate, a detergent that creates a foamy lather and strips hair of its natural oils.  Frequent shampooing dries out our curly manes, making them susceptible to breakage. Unless your hair is naturally oily, please shampoo minimally. Your best bet is to purchase a shampoo that is also moisturizing.

If you’re following Lorraine Massey’s Curly Girl Method (Curly Girl: The Handbook) aka the noo poo (no shampoo)/co-washing (conditioner washing) method, there may be times in which your curly natural hair is over moisturized. Yep, would you believe that one? Hair that is holding too much moisture will be limp. If you fall under this category, use a sulfate free shampoo to clarify and help wake up your strands. Just an aside, a protein treatment may help as well.

Recommendations:

Sulfate-free: Miss Jessie’s Crème De La Curl Cleansing Crème and Creme of Nature Moisture & Shine Shampoo with Argan Oil

Moisturizing: Creme of Nature Detangling Ultra Moisturizing Conditioning Shampoo and Dabur Vatika Moisturizing Shampoo with Sweet Almond

 

2. Moisturizing Conditioner

This is a must, especially if you use shampoo. Conditioners help to restore the moisture that shampoos take away. Not to mention, they add necessary slip for detangling tresses. In addition, conditioners can be left in your hair as a styler. This is known as Teri LaFlesh’s Tightly Curly Method. While I haven’t had success with this method, it may prove positive for you.

Recommendation: Herbal Essence’s Hello Hydration

 

3. Leave-in ConditionerBeautiful Textures Tangle Taming Leave-in Conditioner

Another must have! Leave-ins are crucial to many, if not most, curly girls. When used under your styler and sealed with oil (unless your styler contains enough oils), leave-ins keep curly hair moisturized. It also adds definition and reduces frizz.

You can use a regular conditioner as a leave-in, just beware that some conditioners react to stylers and cause white balls to appear on one’s hair. Not all products play together nicely. 😉

Recommendations: I have recently switched from using Avanti Silicon Mix and swear by Beautiful Textures Tangle Taming Leave-in Conditioner. This product is amazing!! Check out my product review.

 

4. Wide Tooth Comb/Detangling Brush

Unless you’re seeking a wickedly neat part, leave your fine tooth combs in the back of your draw. Our tresses need wide tooth combs to easily glide their way through our hair. They are extremely helpful when paired with a moisturizing conditioner to detangle hair in the shower. Some curlies prefer to use a Denman brush or Tangle Teezer. This is particularly helpful if you’re using the Tightly Curly Method mentioned above. I prefer wide-tooth combs, as I’m one of those curlies who get serious shrinkage and lose a lot hair from brushes.

 

5. Oil and/or Butter

Your curly mane may work well with butter, oil … or both! Either one will seal moisture into your strands, literally making your hair feel like butta! This should be included as a step in your wash and go (see my 10 steps for wash and gos). You can also use oil or butter as a heat protectant when straightening. In addition (yes, there’s more!), they can be used nightly to seal in moisture into your hair or help to soften and revive your look in the morning.

Recommendations: Almond Oil, Coconut Oil, Dabur Vatika Coconut Hair Oil, Jojoba Oil,  and Olive Oil

 

6. Styler

Not every girl needs a styler, but this curlie does. Stylers are products that literally help to style your hair. They increase definition, can freeze curls, and can reduce shrinkage. Stylers prevent my hair from completely transforming into a cotton ball. If this is your desired look, then skip it.

Recommendations:  III Sisters of Nature Curly Whip Pudding, Eco Styler Gel, Fantasia IC Olive Oil Style Gel, Fruit of the Earth 100% Aloe Vera Gel, Hair Rules Kinky Curling Cream, and Miss Jessie’s Quick Curls,

 

7. Hair Clips

They aid in styling your hair or can be used as part of your finished looked. Hair clips section your hair as your work through your head. They are particularly helpful as your hair grows longer. It’s either that or invest in more hands!

 

8. Spray Bottle

Water is nature’s moisturizer. It is a curly girls’ best friend. At some point in your regiment, you’ll need a spray bottle to help douse your hair as you style it. If you’re into rewetting your hair throughout the day, a spray bottle will ease the process.

 

9. Satin or Silk Pillowcase/ Scarf/Sleeping Cap

Another must! You can read my information on Nighttime Routines & Sexy Sleeping For Naturals for more details on satin materials. Please note that satin and silk materials do not absorb the moisture in your hair (unlike cotton), preventing your hair from drying out and breaking. Not to mention, it will save you from “bed head.”

 

10. Camera

This is a must for chronicling your curls. Documenting your hair journey through photos or videos will help you to keep track of your routine and hair health. Aside from badgering your friends, how else will you know what’s working for you?

Once you have these items, you’re pretty much set to go. For those of you in pursuit of how to grow natural hair, these items will keep you on course. Of course, if you are seeking additional styling aids, there are tons of other tools (hair dryers, flat irons, etc.) and products in which you can add to your arsenal. Don’t worry. I’ll keep you posted! 😉

Nay’s Product Staples

Nay’s Product Staples

MyCurlyMane.com Product Staples

Nay’s All-Star Products in June 2012

Click here to view the most recent products that I am using and recommend.

All-Star products that I consistently use are indicated by an asterisk*. You can find my product reviews on this blog.

If you are interested in purchasing items, click on the links below. If you’ve tried these items, please share your thoughts, tips, and experiences!

Shampoos:

  • Creme of Nature Detangling Ultra Moisturizing Conditioning Shampoo*
  • Dabur Vatika Sweet Almond Moisturizing Shampoo
  • Miss Jessie’s Creme De La Curl Cleansing Creme

Conditioners:

  •  Herbal Essence Hello Hydration*
  •  Herbal Essence Hydralicious

Leave-ins:

  • Silicon Mix Intensive Leave in Hair Shine and Conditioner 8oz
  • UPDATE (8-17-12): I now adore Beautiful Textures Tangle Taming Leave-in Conditioner*

Stylers:

  • Miss Jessie’s Quick Curls
  • Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding
  • Hair Rules Kinky Curling Cream
  • Fantasia Polisher Gel With Sparkles 16 oz. Olive Oil
  • UPDATE (9-22-12): I now adore Fruit of the Earth 100% Aloe Vera Gel*and have great results with Eco Styler Gel*

Oils & Butters

  • Dabur Vatika Enriched Coconut Hair Oil*
  • Tropic Isle Living Jamaican Black Castor Oil
  • Jane Carter Nourish and Shine